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    • 专利摘要:
    cosmetic hair treatment method. the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method comprising at least the steps consisting of: a) applying a mechanical tension to said hair, b) exposing said hair under mechanical stress to the microwave, in the presence of a solvent in the form of steam in contact with said hair, without completely drying the hair during exposure to the microwave, the solvent in the form of steam being entirely generated by the evaporation of a compound that is present, before the emission of the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair.
    公开号:BR112012028628B1
    申请号:R112012028628
    申请日:2011-05-11
    公开日:2020-05-05
    发明作者:Vic Gabin；Genain Gilles；Muller Marie；Nuzzo Stefania
    申请人:Oreal；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    v REPORT
    COSMETIC CAPILLARY TREATMENT METHOD
    The present invention relates to hair treatment methods. Foundations
    Cosmetic treatments to give lasting hair modeling are mainly carried out using chemicals.
    Two techniques, both based on breaking the disulfide-S-S bonds present in keratin (cystine), are generally used for the permanent production of hair modeling.
    The first technique comprises a first step, which involves opening the disulfide bonds using a composition comprising a reducing agent, for example, of the type of thioglycolic acid. This first reduction step is usually carried out at a pH between 8 and 9.
    This first technique then preferably comprises, after capillary washing, a second step, which involves the reconstitution of the disulfide bonds by applying an oxidizing composition, referred to as a fixative, to the hair. Before applying the reducing composition, the hair can be put under tension by means of appropriate devices, such as rollers, or it can be straightened. The oxidation step can be carried out at a pH of approximately 20, and can facilitate the formation of new disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to be kept in the desired shape.
    The second technique comprises a lantioning step, employing a composition comprising a base that belongs to the class of hydroxides. The lantionization step is usually conducted at a basic pH of approximately 25. Lantionization is the conversion of the disulfide bridges to monosulfide bridges. This type of treatment is mainly used for naturally wavy hair modeling.
    In order to obtain a satisfactory result in terms of modeling durability, the compositions used in the treatments known from the prior art may comprise relatively high concentrations of active chemical agents (reducing agents or hydroxide compounds, for example). Thus, for example, thioglycolic acid can be used, in certain compositions, at mass concentrations of between 6% and 11%, and 2% sodium hydroxide.
    . / ¼
    2/26
    Products containing thioglycolic acid have an unpleasant odor, which may be present during application and which, in addition, may persist in the hair for some time after treatment has been carried out.
    In addition, the treatments described above can result in irreversible hair damage caused by changes in the hair fiber's intrinsic properties.
    These treatments can also irritate the scalp, due to their relatively high concentration of active chemical agents.
    In addition, it is known to supply heat during treatment in order to activate the processes. These technologies may, in fact, allow improvement in the performance of cosmetics, but they always involve high concentrations of active chemical agents and can, therefore, present the same drawbacks of the treatments described above.
    WO 2002051281, US 20060042649, US 20040250830, WO 2002100210, US 2000680432, US 6079422, US 5988182, US 5819763, US 5773802, US 5676871, JP 09075125, JP 09051813, AU 9664467, US 5494598, EP 197824 US 4743726, US 4952360, US 5030820 and US 5286949 describe articles, for example, rollers, which can be heated in a domestic microwave oven and which are used on wet hair to dry and define hair.
    US patent 3958340 describes a method for quickly drying capillary pieces using air heated by microwave radiation.
    US patent application 20070056960 describes a modeling tool that allows wet capillary wicks to be rolled, smoothed and dried using microwaves.
    DE 3148538 describes a cylindrical tool which is protected by a wall and has a capillary wick wound around it. The wick is dried and defined using microwaves, which are applied in the space between the cylinder and the wall.
    FR 2 178 049 describes devices for supplying electromagnetic energy in various materials.
    In addition, FR 2 114 540 and FR 2 118 945 describe methods for heating and drying hair using electromagnetic radiation.
    There is a need to provide new, more effective and less aggressive methods for permanent hair styling.
    3/26
    There is a particular interest in the existence of improved methods that allow durable styling performances to be achieved, while minimizing the impact of chemicals on hair and scalp.
    There is also a need to have new devices for durable hair modeling.
    The present invention aims to satisfy some or all of the needs mentioned above.
    According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic hair treatment method comprising at least the steps consisting of:
    a) the application of a mechanical tension to said hair,
    b) exposure of said hair under mechanical stress to microwaves, in the presence of a solvent in the form of steam in contact with said hair, without complete capillary drying during total exposure to microwaves.
    In the case of complete drying in step b), modeling is not achieved.
    In step a), microwave radiation may be either existing or not, and so may be the solvent in the form of vapor. In other words, steps a) and
    b) can be successive or simultaneous.
    By mechanical stress applied to said hair is meant mechanical stress applied to a portion of at least the length of said hair.
    The present invention is capable of allowing a durable styling treatment, which is less aggressive to the scalp and hair.
    In addition, the application of a mechanical tension to the hair, in the presence of microwaves and a solvent in the form of steam, is able to allow the durable and improved hair styling to be obtained, even in the absence of reducing agents or alkali metal. or alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
    Microwave means electromagnetic radiation with a frequency between 500 MHz and 300 GHz.
    The frequency of the microwaves used in step b) is preferably between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, for example, from 915 MHz to 2.45 GHz.
    The microwave power used in step b) can be less than or equal to 500 W, preferably less than or equal to 200 W. The power can be greater than or equal to 10 W, at 20 W, at 30 W, at 75 W or 100 W. The microwave power used in step b) is, for example, between 100 and 250 W, or even between 100 and 200 W or between 100 and 175 W.
    4/26
    Microwaves can be generated by a microwave generator, for example, a solid state generator, such as a magnetron.
    The expression without complete capillary drying means that after the
    b), the hair is damp to the touch. The hair can therefore retain at least 1%, in particular at least 2%, or even 5%, of the weight of the present liquid compounds, before step b), in contact with them, these liquid compounds increasing the natural moisture of the hair before treatment.
    The application of mechanical tension can be performed by a device for the application of mechanical tension, the device being able to be configured in such a way as to induce flexion, traction, torsion and / or compression, for example, in the hair. The device for applying mechanical tension can simultaneously exert mechanical stresses on one or more capillary locks.
    The mechanical tensioning device can be, for example, a roller.
    The solvent in the form of steam is completely generated by the evaporation of a compound that is present, before the emission of the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair.
    Treated hair should never be completely dry for the entire duration of the microwave action. In other words, the hair must always be impregnated with the solvent during said exposure.
    In order to facilitate impregnation, the solvent can be atomized in advance.
    Step b) of the process, according to the invention, can be carried out within a housing, as can step a) optionally. The wrapper can form a microwave screen.
    During the method, according to the invention, especially during the step
    b), the wrapper can contain the hair to be treated and the device for applying a mechanical tension.
    By containing the hair is meant to contain the hair over all or part of its length.
    The wrapper can cover the hair with a length, for example, greater than or equal to 5 cm. Therefore, a length of at least 5 cm of hair can be treated in the wrapper.
    The wrapper can be fixed in relation to the treated hair during microwave emission, or it can be movable in relation to the hair, being moved, for example, along the hair to be treated.
    Microwaves can be emitted, if applicable, from an antenna.
    5/26
    As indicated above, the housing can be configured so as not to release the solvent in the form of vapor to the outside environment, or to release only a small amount of it, due, for example, to a solvent recycling facility, recycling taking place, for example, in the form of steam or liquid, after condensation of the solvent.
    The housing may comprise a material configured to absorb the solvent in the form of vapor. The housing may comprise a cold wall on which the solvent condenses and / or an extraction duct for the solvent in the form of vapor.
    Accordingly, the method according to the invention may comprise, during and / or after step b), a solvent recovery step, for example, in vapor form and / or in liquid form and / or absorbed in a material.
    The housing is advantageously substantially impermeable to microwaves. In other words, the housing can be configured to contain the emitted microwaves. Step b) can therefore take place inside a cabinet that is impervious to the microwave.
    The wrapper may comprise at least one junction of an electrically conductive material, which is, for example, elastically deformable, allowing the microwaves used in step b) to be protected, while allowing the hair to come out of the wrapper, if necessary. The junction can comprise, for example, a foam filled with electrically conductive particles, a brush formed of electrically conductive bristles, or a comb comprising metal teeth.
    When the wrapper is in the form of a hood, the wrapper may comprise an electromagnetic shield through which the treated hair is able to pass. This shielding allows the user's hair to be treated, while protecting the user's head from the emitted microwaves.
    The electromagnetic shield can be formed, for example, by a grid or a metallic mesh.
    The treatment device used to implement the method may comprise a sound and / or light warning system, for example, to warn the user of a microwave leakage outside the enclosure and / or excessive temperature inside the enclosure. The treatment device advantageously comprises a security system that prevents the emission of microwaves when the enclosure is not closed and / or in case of
    6/26 abnormal functioning, such as excess temperature, for example, and / or in the absence of solvent.
    The treatment device can be configured to control the duration during which the microwaves are emitted, so that the duration of the treatment that is likely to damage the hair is not reached.
    The method, according to the invention, can comprise, before the step
    b), a step of detection of closure of the enclosure. For example, a contactor is activated when the enclosure is closed.
    The microwave transmission can be conditioned to detect the closure of the enclosure.
    The method, according to the invention, can further comprise a step of detecting the positioning of the hair to be treated, before step b). This detection step can be carried out, for example, by an optical sensor and / or a mechanical sensor.
    The method according to the invention, can comprise, during the step
    b), for example, a temperature measurement step to which the treated hair is subjected. This temperature measurement step can be performed by a thermometer without contact with the hair.
    The enclosure, when defined by forceps, for example, may include some or all devices for applying mechanical tension.
    The device for applying mechanical tension may comprise one or more rollers or another winding device, which is, or is, for example, electrically insulated and compatible with microwave exposure, or plates and / or one or more combs .
    The treatment device can be configured to allow the use of a plurality of different devices for applying tension, which serve, for example, to curl the hair, or conversely, to straighten it. The devices can be interchangeable by the user.
    The treatment device can be equipped to automatically recognize the pressure application device in use, if applicable, by virtue, for example, of electrical contacts or one or more switches.
    The device for applying mechanical tension can be configured to lay out the treated hair during exposure to microwaves.
    Whatever the modalities in question, the hair treated in step a) can be subjected to one or a plurality of mechanical stresses. THE
    7/26 mechanical stress or stresses can be selected from flexural, restoration, compression, torsion and / or tensile stress. The applied stresses can be aimed at curling the hair, or conversely, in straightening it out. The applied stresses can also be aimed at curling hair along a portion of its length and straightening it along another portion of its length.
    The treatment device may comprise, within a single handheld article, the microwave generator and the device for applying mechanical tension. By hand article is meant an article that is handled by the user with one hand during hair treatment.
    When the treatment device comprises a tweezer, microwaves can be emitted by only one of the tweezers' branches, or by all branches of the tweezers.
    Routing means that can be used to transmit microwaves from the generator to the enclosure include waveguides, for example, a flexible coaxial cable less than 10 m in length, preferably less than 5 m, and a smaller diameter at 5 cm, preferably less than 2 cm, and assemblies comprising at least one antenna that emits electromagnetic radiation and at least one antenna that receives electromagnetic radiation.
    The microwave generator and / or the wrapper can be configured to subject the treated hair during step b) to microwave radiation which is variable in its spatial distribution inside the wrapper - rotating, for example. Rotating microwave radiation can advantageously allow treated hair to be more uniformly exposed to said radiation, and thus reduce the risk of local overexposure to radiation.
    The solvent is, for example, a liquid with a boiling point below 200 ° C.
    The liquid can preferably comprise, in particular, consist of a protic polar liquid medium having a dielectric constant at 20 ° C, which is greater than or equal to 8, best 10, best 15.
    This solvent preferably comprises water and / or propanol. Most preferably, this solvent is water or propanol.
    In one embodiment, the solvent in the form of steam can be generated by direct heating of the solvent in the liquid state via microwaves.
    8/26
    The solvent in the form of steam may have, in the vicinity of and / or in contact with the hair, in step b), a temperature between 80 and 200 ° C, preferably between 100 and 150 ° C, for example, between 120 and 150 ° C.
    The pressure to which the treated hair is subjected in step b) can be between 10 5 and 10 6 Pa (1-10 bar), preferably between 10 5 and 5 x 10 5 Pa (1-5 bar).
    The hair may, during part or all of step b), be present in a volume defined by at least one wall of a material, said material allowing microwaves to pass through it and limiting the evaporation of the present compound, before emission of microwaves, in contact with the treated hair.
    The use of such a material can advantageously reduce hair drying during the treatment according to the invention.
    The material may in particular comprise cellophane and / or may have a low porosity. In a variant, the material can be porous and, in particular, be a mesh.
    The material can maintain its physical structure after exposure to microwaves. In particular, the material cannot melt after exposure to microwaves.
    The method according to the invention may further comprise at least one step c) which involves the application of at least one durable capillary shaping composition.
    By durable modeling composition is meant a composition that, when applied to the hair, allows the disulfide bonds present in the keratin to be opened.
    This step can occur before step a) and / or after step b).
    Steps a) and b) can reinforce the action of the modeling composition, and can allow, for example, that the amount of active agents is reduced or that its effectiveness is increased by the same amount.
    The method according to the invention can further comprise at least one step d), after step c), which involves applying at least one fixing composition to the hair.
    Fixation composition means a composition that, when applied to the hair, allows the disulfide bonds present in the keratin to be reconstituted and, therefore, contributes to the realization of the hairstyle in the desired styling. The fixing composition can also make it possible to
    9/26 improvement in modeling retention obtained by the action of the modeling composition.
    This step d) can occur before step a) and / or after step b), continuing after step c).
    The duration of step b) can vary depending on the desired styling performance and the nature of the hair, for example.
    Regardless of the exemplary modalities under consideration, the duration of step b) can be comprised between 1s and 30mins, preferably, * '· between 1s and 10mins.
    Regardless of the exemplary modalities under consideration, step b) can be repeated, for example, between 0 and 10 times, preferably between 0 and 5 times.
    The styling or fixing compositions can be applied when the hair is present in the wrapper, due, for example, to a suitable application system. The application system comprises, for example, a base, a comb, one or more dispensing orifices, or an atomizing nozzle, arranged inside or outside the shell, for example, in the path of the hair emerging or entering the shell .
    The modeling composition and / or the fixing composition can, if necessary, be subjected to microwave radiation.
    The treatment device can comprise a sensor sensitive to a characteristic of the hair - for example, color, mechanical strength, surface condition and / or humidity - and the treatment device can control at least one treatment parameter depending on the characteristic thus detected, for example, microwave energy, solvent temperature, duration of treatment and / or the mechanical stress exerted.
    According to another aspect, the invention relates to a hair treatment device for implementing the method as defined above, comprising:
    - a device for applying mechanical tension to the hair,
    - a microwave generator.
    All features specified for the above method apply to the treatment device.
    Therefore, the treatment device can, for example, define a treatment envelope that forms a microwave screen.
    Description of the figures
    10/26
    The invention can be better understood by reading the detailed description below, by non-limiting examples for its implementation, and by examining the attached drawing, in which:
    - Figures 1 to 5 represent, schematically and partially, exemplary modalities of treatment devices according to the invention,
    - Figure 10 represents, schematically and partially, an exemplary embodiment according to the invention, and
    - Figures 6 to 9 represent hair strands that have been subjected to various cosmetic treatments.
    Figure 1 shows a treatment device 100 comprising a handpiece 3 comprising a wrapper in which the hair to be treated is received, connected by a flexible cable 2 to a base unit 1, comprising a microwave generator .
    The flexible cable 2 can comprise a waveguide.
    Figure 2 shows a detail of Figure 1.
    The microwaves 70 routed inside the handpiece 3, through the waveguide 2 allow the heating of the liquid solvent present in the hair to be treated and allows it to be transformed into the state of solvent in the form of steam. In this exemplary modality, a device for applying mechanical tension and a capillary lock (not shown) are present inside the handpiece 3, and the hair is exposed to both microwaves and the vapor solvent form 80. A detector temperature 150 can be present in order to measure the temperature of the treated capillary, and a control system, for example, a microprocessor control system, can allow the microwave emission to be interrupted or modified, in the case of a detected temperature above a predetermined limit.
    Figure 3 shows an exemplary modality in which the treatment wrapper is formed by closing a clamp that forms all or part of the handpiece 3. The clamp, when opened, allows one or more capillary locks for treatment to be introduced between the branches. Each branch defines, for example, half the envelope.
    Microwaves can be emitted by a single branch or by both branches of the tweezers.
    11/26
    A sensor (not shown) can inform the treatment device that the clamps are closed, and the microwave transmission can be conditioned to detect this closure.
    The mechanical stress applied to the hair can be a pulling force in order to straighten the hair.
    In all of the above examples, the microwave routing means may comprise a transmitting antenna 10 and a receiving antenna 15, as illustrated in Figure 4.
    Figure 5 also shows a capillary wick that M is present in a handpiece treatment wrapper 3. The wrapper is impermeable to microwaves and for this purpose, for example, comprises electrically conductive foam joints 200, which reflects the radiation of microwave, at the point where the hair leaves the wrapper.
    In a variant, not shown, the microwave generator 1 may be present, for example, inside the chamber and / or inside the device for applying mechanical tension.
    Figure 10 shows an embodiment according to the invention, in which a capillary lock M is present in a volume defined by a wall 300 of a material, said material allowing microwaves 70 to pass through it and containing the steam 80 generated .
    The content of steam 80 advantageously allows hair M to be moistened during treatment.
    Said material may in particular comprise cellophane and / or have a low porosity. In a variant, the material can be porous and, in particular, be a mesh.
    Modeling composition
    Composition reduction
    Reducing agents
    The modeling composition can be a reducing composition comprising one or more reducing agents.
    The reducing agent can, for example, be selected from:
    - thioglycolic acid of formula (1): HS-CH2-COOH (1),
    - thiolactic acid of formula (2):
    HS — CH — COOH
    I
    CH 3
    12/26
    - 3-mercapto acid of the general formula (3): HS-CH2-CH2-COOH (3),
    - Cysteamine of formula (4): HS-CH2-CH2-NH2 (4),
    - Cysteine of formula (5): HS-CH2-CH (NH2) -CO2H and also its salts and esters,
    - phosphines, sulphites and borohydrides.
    The cosmetically acceptable salts of the products (1) to (4) above include, for example, ammonium salts, salts of primary, secondary or tertiary amines and salts of alkaline earth metals. Primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts include, respectively, monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine and triethanolamine.
    The esters of compounds (1) to (4) above include monothioglycolate glycerol, ethylene glycol monothioglycolate, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate and 2-hydroxy-1-methyl-ethyl thioglycolate described in patent application FRA-2 679 448, glycerol monothiolactate, ethylene glycol monothiolactate, ethylene glycerol-3mercapto-propionate and 3-mercaptopropionate.
    The reducing agent or agents can be present in an amount of, for example, between 0.01% and 20%, preferably between 0.1% and 10%, more preferably between 0.3% and 3% by weight, in relative to the total weight of the reduction composition.
    Additives present in the reducing composition
    The reducing composition may further comprise one or more additives.
    The additives can be used, within the scope of the reducing composition, alone or in mixtures.
    The reducing composition can comprise at least one surfactant, for example, a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, among which alkyl sulfates, alkyl benzene sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkylbetaines, ethoxylated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, and other non-ionic surfactants such as hydroxypropyl ether and alkyl polyglycosides.
    The surfactant or surfactants can, for example, be present in an amount of less than 30% by weight, and preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the reducing composition.
    In order to improve cosmetic capillary properties or to reduce or prevent capillary damage, the reducing composition can also
    13/26 comprise at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric treatment agent.
    Particularly preferred treatment agents include especially those described in French patent applications FR 2 598 613 and FR 2 470 596. As treatment agents, it is also possible to use volatile and non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones and mixtures thereof. , polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes, such as those described in French patent application FR 2 535 730, polyorganosiloxanes containing aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups, such as those described in US patent 4 749 732, polyorganosiloxanes such as the polydimethoxy polyoxyalkyl copolymer. Dimethicone Copoliol, a polydimethylsiloxane containing stearoxy (Stearoxy dimethicone) terminal groups, a copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate or a polydimethylsiloxane-poly alkyl betaine copolymer, these copolymers being described in British Patent Application 2 GB 355 with mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups, such as those described in French patent FR 1 530 369 and in European patent application EP 295 780, and also silanes such as trimethyl Silvane stearoxy.
    The reducing composition may further comprise other treatment agents, such as, for example, cationic polymers, such as those used in the French patent compositions FR 2 472 382 and FR 2 495 931, or else cationic polymers of the ionene type, such as those used in compositions according to Luxembourg patent 83703. The composition can also comprise basic amino acids, such as, for example, lysine or arginine, or acids, for example, glutamic acid or aspartic acid, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, agents swelling and penetrating agents, reinforcing agents or the effectiveness of the reducing agent, such as a mixture SÍO2 / PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane), urea, dimethylisosorbitol and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, Nalkylpyrrolidones, solvents such as alkylene glycol ethers or dialkylene glycol alkyl , such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and ether diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, C3-C6 alkanedioles, such as 1,2propanediol and 1,2-butanediol, 2-imidazolidinone, and other compounds, such as fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, active ingredients such as pantothenic acid, agents to counter hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, agents
    14/26 thickeners, suspending agents, sequestrants, opacifiers, dyes, sun protection agents, as well as perfumes and preservatives.
    The pH of the reducing compositions is preferably between 6 and 11, more preferably between 7 and 10.
    The reducing composition can comprise at least one alkalizing agent to adjust the pH.
    The alkalizing agent, preferably used in the compositions, according to the invention, is an agent that can allow the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is present to be increased.
    The agent can be a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base alkalizer.
    The alkalizing agent can be organic or inorganic.
    The alkalizing agent can, for example, be selected from:
    a) aqueous ammonia,
    b) alkanolamines, such as mono, di and triethanolamines and also their derivatives,
    c) ethoxylated and / or propoxylated ethylene diamines,
    d) alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicates,
    e) amino acids, preferably the basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,
    f) (bi) carbonates, particularly primary, secondary or tertiary amines (ammonium), alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (bi) carbonates, and
    g) compounds of formula (II) below:
    R. Λ
    NW-N ^
    Rc R d (|) t where W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical group. The Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd groups are identical or different and can be a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
    Preferred alkalizing agents can be aqueous ammonia and monoethanolamine.
    The alkalizing agent or agents, for example, as defined above, can be present in an amount between 0.001% and preferably 10%, for example, between 0.005% and 8%, by weight, with respect to
    15/26 to the weight of the reducing composition. This concentration can, in particular, be a function of the desired pH of the reducing composition.
    Conditions for application of the reducing composition
    In a preferred exemplary embodiment, when applied before step a) and / or after step b), the reducing composition can be left to act, for example, for a duration between 1 and 50 minutes, preferably between 1 and 30 minutes.
    When the reducing composition is applied before step a) and / or after step b), the modeling step can take place at a temperature between 20 and 40 ° C, preferably between 25 and 35 ° C.
    In addition, the reducing composition can preferably be applied to clean, moist hair fibers.
    Composition comprising a hydroxide compound
    The modeling composition can comprise one or more hydroxide compounds.
    Hydroxide compound
    By hydroxide compound is meant a compound capable of releasing hydroxide ions. In the modeling composition used in the context of the present invention, it is possible to use all hydroxide compounds normally used in lantionization processes.
    The at least one hydroxide compound can preferably be selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, lanthanide metal hydroxides, actinide metal hydroxides, group III metal hydroxides, group IV metals, group V metal hydroxides, group VI metal hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and compounds comprising at least one partially hydrolyzable hydroxide substituent.
    Hydroxide compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention can include, for example, sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide, copper hydroxide , strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, zinc hydroxide and cobalt hydroxide.
    Preferred compounds are sodium hydroxide hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide. Its concentration is preferably such that the pH of the composition is between 12 and 14.
    16/26
    The hydroxide compound or compounds may be present in the modeling composition, at a concentration of between 0.2 and 1 M, preferably between 0.4 and 0.6 M.
    Emulsifiers
    The modeling composition comprising a hydroxide compound can be at least partially in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
    In the latter case, it can comprise at least one nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifier.
    Emulsifiers are surfactants and are selected according to the emulsion to be obtained, for example, water in oil (W / O) or oil in water (O / W).
    When the objective is to obtain a modeling composition comprising an emulsion, for example, as described above, use can be made of:
    - amphoteric emulsifying agents, for example, N-acylamino, such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides, such as stearamine oxide,
    - anionic emulsifying agents, for example, acylglutamates such as hydrogenated tallow disodium glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 ® marketed by Ajinomoto), carboxylic acids and their salts, such as sodium stearate, phosphoric esters and their salts, such as olet DEA phosphate -10, sulfosuccinates such as PEG-5 disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and MEA disodium ricinoleamide sulfosuccinate,
    - cationic emulsifiers, for example, iso-stearyl alkylimidazolidiniums-ethylimidonium ethosulfate, and ammonium salts, such as N, N, N-trimethyl1-docosanaminium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), and
    - non-ionic emulsifying agents, for example, saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate marketed by ICI under the name Arlatone 2121 ®, polyol esters, for example glycerol esters or sorbitol esters, such as glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan stearate, glycerol ethers, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated, ethers such as ethoxylated ether and propoxylated ether containing lauryl alcohol 25 ethoxy groups and 25 propoxy groups (CTFA name PPG-25 lauret-25), and ethoxylated ether from a mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 ethoxy groups (name CTFA C12
    17/26
    C15 Pareth-7), ethylene glycol polymers, such as PEG-100, and mixtures thereof.
    It is possible to use one or more of these emulsifiers.
    For water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, examples of emulsifiers include polyol fatty acid esters, in particular glycerol fatty acid esters or sorbitol esters, and especially isostearyl, oleyl and ricinoleyl of such a polyol. such as the mixture of petrolatum, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, glyceryl isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil and ozokerite which is sold under the name Protin W ® by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl diisoestearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; esters and saccharide ethers such as methylglucose dioleate; fatty esters such as magnesium lanolate; dimethicone and dimethicone copolio alkyl copolyols, such as the laurylmethylone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, the cetildimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 ® by Goldschmidt, and dimethicone copolyol and mixtures thereof.
    Emulsion oils can be vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicone oils, liquid esters or straight or branched C7-C16 hydrocarbons.
    Conditions for applying the composition comprising a hydroxide compound
    In a preferred exemplary embodiment, when applied before step a) and / or after step b), the composition comprising a hydroxide compound is left to act, for example, for a period of between 5 and 60 minutes, preferably between 10 and 20 minutes.
    When the composition comprising a hydroxide compound is applied before step a) and / or after step b), the fixing step can be carried out at a temperature of between 20 and 40 ° C, preferably between 25 and 35 ° C.
    After the step of applying the composition comprising a hydroxide compound and after any contact time the hair can be washed, p re ferencialmente with tap water and reverse osmosis water, or even with an acidic composition in order to remove alkalinity residues.
    Acid composition
    Acid composition means a composition comprising one or more acids selected, for example, from acids containing one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions.
    18/26
    Acids can contain functions of other chemical substances, more particularly hydroxyl or amino functions.
    The acids can be saturated or unsaturated.
    The acids that can be used can include, for example, acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, citric acid and taurine.
    A preferred acid is citric acid.
    The inorganic acid or acids present in the composition can be selected from monoacid or polyacid acids.
    They include, for example, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and boric acid.
    The acidic composition can, for example, have a pH value between 2 and 7, preferably between 3 and 4.
    Oxidizing composition
    The fixing composition is an oxidizing composition.
    By oxidizing composition is meant compositions comprising, for example, one or more oxidizing agents selected from, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, polythionates, and persals, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates.
    The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.
    The oxidizing agent or agent can be present in an amount of between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, by weight, with respect to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
    Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the method, according to the invention, comprises at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer.
    Stabilizers may include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin or oxyquinoline acid salts, such as oxyquinoline sulphate. Even more advantageously, at least one stannate is used alone or in combination with at least one pyrophosphate.
    The hydrogen peroxide stabilizer or stabilizers may be present in an amount between 0.0001% and 5%,
    19/26 preferably between 0.01% and 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
    The oxidizing composition can, for example, have a pH value between 1.5 and 4.5, preferably between 2 and 3.5, especially when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
    In a preferred exemplary embodiment, when applied before step a) or after step b), the oxidizing composition, as defined above, is left to act for about 2-30 minutes, preferably for 2 to 15 minutes, more particularly between 2-7 minutes, at a temperature comprised between 20 and 40 ° C, preferably between 25 and 35 ° C. The oxidizing composition is preferably applied to clean, damp hair.
    The vehicle of the reduction and oxidation compositions is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and can advantageously contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol ethers alkyl, such as, for example, diethylene glycol or monobutyl ether monoethyl ether. In this case, organic solvents may be present in concentrations between approximately 0.1% and 20% and preferably between about 1% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    The pH of the oxidizing composition in the process, according to the invention, can be obtained and / or adjusted by conventional addition or by one or more alkaline agents, such as those already mentioned in the composition, or by reducing acidifying agents such as example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.
    All the compositions used in the process, according to the invention, can be present independently of each other, in the form of a thickened or non-thickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a mousse.
    The following examples are given for purposes of illustration and have no limiting effect on the present invention.
    Examples
    Example 1: Method for long-lasting hair waving
    20/26
    A dry capillary wick that is then washed and moistened is placed under mechanical tension, for example, being wound around a cylinder with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    The assembly is placed in a housing. The power and duration of the microwave treatment is variable according to the desired wave intensity.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    If the lock is completely dry, the desired curl is not. «. «T observed.
    Example 2: Method for straightening hair
    A dry capillary wick, which is then moistened or washed, is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    The assembly is then placed in a housing. The power and duration of the microwave treatment are variable according to the intensity of the smoothing that is desired.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    As a variant, the dry capillary wick, which is then moistened or washed, is placed directly between the sheets of a wrapper formed by tweezers.
    The mechanical stress is then obtained by clamping and pulling the wick.
    Example 3
    The capillary wick is pre-treated, before the application of the microwaves, with a dyeing composition (by oxidation or direct), of a bleaching composition, a permanent wave, based, for example, on thiol reducing agents, a sodium hydroxide or guanidine hair straightening procedure, a treatment, a hair mask or a shampoo, and then it is rolled up, as described in Example 1 or smoothed as described in Example 2.
    Example 4: Long-lasting capillary curling or straightening method, using a modeling composition
    The capillary wick, optionally washed, and dried or wet, is first impregnated with a modeling composition, with a mass bath ratio of 10 to 1.
    The resulting capillary wick is then placed under mechanical tension. If the objective is to carry out a winding process, the aforementioned
    21/26 wick is, for example, wound around a cylinder with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with both ends kept fixed.
    If the objective is to carry out a smoothing process, said capillary wick is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and duration of the microwave treatment is variable according to the intensity of the curl or smoothing desired.
    The capillary wick can subsequently be rinsed or washed on the support, or it can be detached from the support.
    When the modeling composition comprises a reducing composition and when the capillary wick is not detached from the support, a fixation step comprising a step of applying an oxidation composition can be carried out.
    As a variant, when the modeling composition comprises a composition comprising a sodium hydroxide compound and, when the wick is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acid composition can be carried out.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    Example 5: Long-lasting capillary curling or straightening method, using an oxidizing composition
    A capillary wick, optionally washed and wet, is treated with a mass bath ratio of 10 to 1, with a modeling composition comprising a reducing composition. The modeling composition can be left to act for a variable time, depending on the desired performance.
    The wick is subsequently washed and then impregnated with an oxidizing composition, with a 10: 1 bath ratio.
    The capillary lock is placed under mechanical stress.
    If the objective is to perform the winding, said wick is, for example, wound around a cylinder with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    If the objective is to perform smoothing, said strand is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with two ends kept fixed.
    22/26
    The assemblies thus obtained are immediately placed in a cabinet. The power and duration of the microwave treatment varies according to the intensity of the curl or smoothness desired.
    The wick so treated can be washed or washed on the support, or it can be detached from the support.
    Example 6: Curling method or long-lasting hair straightening with one-step pretreatment
    A capillary wick, optionally washed and wet, is treated, with a 10: 1 bath ratio, with a modeling composition comprising a reduction composition, for a time that is variable according to the desired performance.
    The capillary wick is then washed and then, optionally, dried, and placed under mechanical tension.
    If the objective is to perform the winding, said wick is, for example, wound around a cylinder with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    If the objective is to perform smoothing, said strand is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with two ends kept fixed.
    The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and duration of the microwave treatment is variable according to the intensity of the curl or smoothing that is desired.
    The wick thus treated can be rinsed or washed on the support, or it can be detached from the support.
    When the modeling composition comprises a reducing composition and when the capillary wick is not detached from the support, a fixation step comprising a step of applying an oxidation composition can be performed.
    As a variant, when the modeling composition comprises a composition comprising a sodium hydroxide compound and, when the wick is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acid composition can be carried out.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    Example 7: Method for permanent capillary curling or straightening, comprising a cutting step and a fixing step, after treatment in the wrapper
    23/26
    The capillary wick, optionally washed, dried or wet, and placed under mechanical tension.
    If the objective is to perform the winding, said wick is, for example, wound around a cylinder with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends kept fixed.
    If the objective is to perform smoothing, said strand is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with two ends kept fixed.
    The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and duration of the microwave treatment are variable according to the intensity of the curl or smoothness desired.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    The wick, still placed on the support, is then treated with a modeling composition, with a 10: 1 bath ratio, for a variable time according to the desired performance, and then rinsed.
    When the modeling composition comprises a reducing compound, and when the capillary wick is not detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an oxidation composition can be performed.
    As a variant, when the composition comprises a hydroxide modeling compound and, when the wick is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acid composition can be performed.
    A final wash or rinse can optionally be performed.
    In a variant of examples 4 to 8, instead of being stretched along a straightening support, the capillary wick is placed between the sheets of the enclosure defined by tweezers. Mechanical stress is obtained by clamping and pulling the wick.
    Example 8
    The capillary wick can be treated, before the method, according to the invention, and optional pretreatments, with a treatment by dyeing (by oxidation or direct), bleaching, treatment, capillary mask or washing and then rolled up or smoothed according to the procedures described in Examples 4-7 above.
    Example 9 (comparative)
    24/26
    Natural hard capillary wicks, 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were moistened, were treated in two different ways.
    - Treatment according to the invention, with microwave water heating according to Example 1
    No. of wick Microwave power Exposure time Temperature (° C) Pressure (bar) 1 135 2 times 5 min 145 4 2 135 3 times 5 min 145. 4 3 135 6 times 5 min 145 4
    - Treatment with a permanent wave treatment of thioglycolic acid, Dulcia Vital 2 Force 1, for 15 minutes, followed by a fixation step lasting 5 minutes, with the Dulcia Vital 2 fixator (N 0 4).
    After these treatments, the locks were rinsed.
    Figure 6 shows strands 1-4 after washing.
    Wicks 1-4 were subsequently washed 5 times. The results are shown in Figure 7.
    It is observed that the modeling performance in fuses 1, 2 and 3, is better than in those treated with the permanent wave treatment (fuse 4).
    Example 10 (comparative)
    Natural hard capillary wicks, 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were moistened, were treated in two different ways.
    - Treatment according to the invention, with microwave water heating according to Example 1 (No. 1):
    Power (W) Exposure time Temperature Pressure (bar) 135 6 times 5 min 145 4
    - Treatment with a permanent wave treatment of thioglycolic acid, Dulcia Vital 2 Force 1, for 15 minutes, followed by a fixation step lasting 5 minutes, with the Dulcia Vital 2 fixator (n ° 2).
    After these treatments, the strands were washed and subjected to several strength tests: effect of ten standard washes, effect of four alternating wash / smooth cycles, effect of four wash / smooth cycles followed by ten washes with shampoo. The results are shown in Figure 8.
    It can be seen that the n ° 1 shows better resistance after several tests than the n ° 2.
    Example 11 (comparative)
    25/26
    Natural curly hair capillaries, 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were moistened, were treated in two different ways.
    - Treatment according to the invention, with microwave water heating according to Example 2 (No. 1): ______________________________
    Power (W) Exposure time Temperature Pressure (bar) 135 6 times 5 min 145 4
    - smoothing with thioglycolic acid with the smoothing product X Tenso for 20 min, followed by 10 min fixing with neutralizing fixative milk X Tenso (n ° 2). After these treatments, the locks were washed and rinsed. The results are shown in Figure 9.
    It is observed that, with the invention, smoothing performances are obtained which are identical to those of the prior art, without the use of reducing agent and oxidizing agent.
    Example 12
    Natural, 0.35g and 15cm Caucasian hard capillary wicks were treated in two ways.
    - Treatment according to the invention, according to Example 4: Modeling composition: 0.5M aqueous solution of thioglycolic acid Production of wicks (wicks in rolls)
    Microwave / steam treatment: P = 135W; T = 145 ° C, p = 4 bar; duration of exposure: 5min
    Rinse the wicks in rolls
    5min of fixation with an oxidizing composition
    Final wash
    - Comparative
    Modeling composition: 1M aqueous solution of thioglycolic acid Production of wicks (wicks in rolls)
    20min waiting at 25 ° C
    Rinse the wicks in rolls
    5min of fixation with an oxidizing composition
    Final wash
    The microwave / steam treatment produces a modeling result identical to the state of the art, with a reduced concentration of thioglycolic acid.
    Due to the reduced concentration and the shorter treatment time, the lock is less damaged and the feeling is more cosmetic.
    V
    26/26
    Example 13
    Natural curly African hair strands, and 0.35 g of 15 cm, were treated in two ways:
    - Treatment of the invention according to Example 4:
    Modeling composition: 0.3M aqueous sodium hydroxide solution
    Straightening (strands stretched along a support)
    Microwave / steam treatment: P = 135W; T = 145 ° C, p = 4 bar; duration of exposure: 5min
    Washing with an acidic composition
    - Comparative
    Modeling composition: 0.6M aqueous sodium hydroxide solution
    Straightening (hand-worked locks)
    20min waiting at 25 ° C
    Washing with an acid composition
    The microwave / steam treatment produces a smoothing result that is identical to the state of the art, with a reduced concentration of sodium hydroxide.
    Due to the reduced concentration and the shorter treatment time, the lock is less damaged and the feeling is more cosmetic.
    The expression comprises one / an should be understood as comprising at least one / an.
    The expression between should be understood with the included end points.
    权利要求:
    Claims (10)
    [1]
    1. Cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized by the fact that it comprises:
    a) apply mechanical tension to said hair;
    b) exposing said hair under mechanical tension to microwaves, in the presence of a solvent in the form of steam in contact with said hair, without completely drying the hair during exposure to microwaves, the solvent being in the form of steam entirely generated by the evaporation of a compound that is present, before the emission of the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair, in which the solvent vapor has, in the vicinity of and / or in contact with the hair, in step b) , a temperature between 100 and 150 ° C, and, after step b), the hair retains at least 5% of the weight of the said solvent present before step b), in contact with it, the solvent being added to the natural moisture of the hair before treatment, a microwave frequency being between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, the method further comprising a step c) of applying to the treated hair at least one composition for durable hair styling, the composition for durable hair styling being a reducing composition comprised comprising one or more reducing agents, the pH of the reducing composition being between 7 and 11, the reducing composition comprising at least one alkalizing agent, the alkalifying agent being selected from:
    a) aqueous ammonia,
    b) alkanolamines and their derivatives,
    c) ethoxylated and / or propoxylated ethylene diamines,
    d) alkali metal silicates,
    e) amino acids,
    f) compounds of formula (II) below:
    R. Rí, /
    N — W —N where W is a propylene residue that is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical and the groups Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd are
    Petition 870190115024, of 11/08/2019, p. 12/17
    [2]
    2. Method, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that steps a) and b) are successive or simultaneous.
    2/3 identical or different and can be a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
    [3]
    3/3
    13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises the step of recovering the solvent in the form of vapor during and / or after step b).
    14. Method, according to any of the preceding claims,
    3. Method, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the application of the modeling composition occurs before step a) and / or after step b).
    [4]
    Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises applying at least one fixative composition to the treated hair comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
    [5]
    5 characterized by the fact that, for part or all of step b), the hair is present in a volume defined by at least one wall of a material, the said material allowing microwaves to pass through it and limiting evaporation of the present compound, before the emission of the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair.
    5. Method, according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that the application of the fixative composition occurs before step a) and / or after step b) and after step c).
    [6]
    6. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that step a) occurs by applying at least one torsion, traction or compression tension to the treated hair.
    [7]
    7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the duration of step b) is between 1 s and 30 min.
    [8]
    8. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the microwaves have a frequency between 915 MHz and 2.45 GHz.
    [9]
    Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the microwaves have a power of less than 500 W, preferably less than 200 W.
    10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that the compound that is present, before emitting the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair, comprises, in particular, consisting of a polar liquid medium protic having a dielectric constant at 20 ° C which is greater than or equal to 8, preferably 10, preferably 15.
    Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solvent in vapor form comprises water and / or propanol and preferably is water or propanol.
    12. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that step b) takes place in an environment that is impervious to microwaves.
    Petition 870190115024, of 11/08/2019, p. 13/17
    [10]
    15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the material comprises, particularly consists of, cellophane.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US20130152959A1|2013-06-20|
    EP2568848A1|2013-03-20|
    WO2011141882A1|2011-11-17|
    JP6162041B2|2017-07-12|
    JP2013527786A|2013-07-04|
    FR2959917A1|2011-11-18|
    JP2016163718A|2016-09-08|
    CN102984967A|2013-03-20|
    BR112012028628A2|2017-11-21|
    FR2959917B1|2012-07-27|
    ES2611108T3|2017-05-04|
    CN102984967B|2016-03-09|
    US9775419B2|2017-10-03|
    EP2568848B1|2016-11-09|
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    法律状态:
    2018-12-26| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according art. 34 industrial property law|
    2019-08-13| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: suspension of the patent application procedure|
    2020-03-10| B09A| Decision: intention to grant|
    2020-05-05| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 11/05/2011, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1053701A|FR2959917B1|2010-05-11|2010-05-11|HAIR PROCESSING PROCESS|
    PCT/IB2011/052074|WO2011141882A1|2010-05-11|2011-05-11|Hair treatment method|
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